My first visit to St Petersburg was at the height of the Cold War.
It was then called Leningrad, after the communist tyrant of that name (an angel compared with his bloody successor Stalin . . . of Stalingrad infamy.) I sailed in on a coastal ferry which had begun its voyage in Sweden. On producing my passport my old red booklet-style British driving licence tumbled from its pages. Stern-faced immigration officers (I later heard) assumed it was a membership card of the Communist Party of Great Britain (it had about 175 members!) and everything was then hunky-dory for Comrade Miller!
Follow the 30-degree line of longitude on a map due-north from Zimbabwe for about 8 600km and you’ll arrive at the new-old St Petersburg. Sharing a grid reference may be the only thing modern-day Zimbabwe and Russia have in common, however, so for those who enjoy a different experience, St Petersburg is a city worth exploring.
Emirates’ new Dubai connection from Harare makes the trip much more do-able, as the airline offers daily flights to St Petersburg from Dubai, complete with complimentary drinks in all classes. Flights land at Pulkovo Airport, 15km from the city centre. St Petersburg’s major hotels operate cars to collect visitors and taxis are plentiful. City or shuttle buses are also available to take you to Moskovskaya underground station, 25-minutes’ drive away. Travellers to St Petersburg can experience many cultural highlights, from the treasures of the world-famous Hermitage museum to the magnificent vistas of Peterhof Park and Tsarskoe Selo. Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, Russia’s former capital is built where the river Neva joins the Gulf of Finland. Spread over more than 40 islands, St Petersburg is often called ‘Venice of the North’ due to its network of canals and rivers. Criss-crossed by impressive bridges and lined with imposing buildings from two centuries ago, a boat trip around these waterways is highly recommended. Having survived a long, turbulent history, modern St Petersburg is now better known for its cultural heritage. Filled with impressive 18th and 19th century architecture, this former capital is home to some of the world’s best ballet, opera and classical music. Every season in St Petersburg brings out something unique in the city. Winter offers the spectacular frozen Neva and Spring sees the city come back to life as snows thaw. But a particular favourite of locals are the festivities that take place during the White Nights of June, when the sun hardly sets and daylight never quite disappears. Over recent years, restaurants in St Petersburg have changed for the better and are now much closer to the standards of other European tourist cities. No single area can lay claim to having the best places to eat and quality restaurants are spread across the city. Food is primarily European cuisine, although many places include traditional Russian dishes on their menus. Look out for zakusi, a selection of hors d’oeuvres often including pickled vegetables, cured meats and fish, salads and breads. Borscht is another popular staple, a beetroot-based sweet and sour soup served cold in summer and hot in winter. And the ever-popular Russian caviar is always worth a try. A good place to start your visit is at the beginning. After defeating the occupying Swedish forces in 1703, Peter the Great built the Peter and Paul Fortress to protect his newly conquered lands. The fortress became the birthplace of St Petersburg. An original wooden structure was eventually replaced with stone by the Swiss-Italian architect Domenico Trezzini, who went on to design several of St Petersburg’s iconic buildings. Almost directly opposite the fortress, on the other side of the Neva, you’ll find the Hermitage museum: one of the most famous in the world, the Hermitage is St Petersburg’s most popular attractions with more than 2,5million visitors a year. With over 350 rooms of exhibits, taking a guided tour is a good way to see the highlights, as well as being the only way to get inside the Treasure Galleries. Star exhibits include The Return of the Prodigal Son by Rembrandt, Gauguin’s Ea Haere Ia Oe and La Danse by Matisse. Although the Hermitage houses many incredible collections, very few are from Russia. Luckily, the world’s finest collection of Russian art is housed nearby at the Russian Museum in Mikhailovskiy Palace where over 400 000 works offer an invaluable insight into the country’s artistic heritage. A few hundred metres away, across the picturesque Mikhailovskiy Garden, is another of St Petersburg’s impressive landmarks. The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood is a riot of colour and juxtaposed materials, the church was re-opened in 1998 after more than 20 years of restoration. Just outside St Petersburg, on the Baltic shore, Peterhof Park is remarkable for the sheer variety of styles it encompasses. Covering 607 hectares, this grand park represents nearly two centuries of aristocratic European fashion and has numerous palaces, fountains and sculptures to explore. Also recommended is spending a day at the imperial palace of Tsarskoe Selo. Surrounded by incredible parks and gardens, an early arrival is a must to both fit everything in and beat the crowds. Visit the Catherine Palace and enjoy the splendour of the Amber Chamber, covered in intricately-carved amber panels. Emirates fares from Harare to St Petersburg start at around $1 489. Visa information is available from the Russian Embassy in Harare or online at http://www.ruszim.org.zw ldustym@zimind.co.zw